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SPFW - Follow Up #2

The fourth day of São Paulo Fashion Week (27th January) started early in the morning – well at least for the fashionistas. Maria Bonita’s fashion show was scheduled for 10 AM, but it wasn’t until noon that the show really began. But what we saw worth the wait. An incredible mixture of classics shapes and patterns with technological fabrics and futuristic aesthetic, such as the vinyl pied-de-coc trench.

The next show took place only in the afternoon. Designer Simone Nunes presented her winter 2007 collection for the first time at SPFW. Girlie aesthetic with bucolic perfume was the tone of the good show. Then Lorenzo Merlino continued with his minimalism, presenting geometric forms with plastic and PVC details, such as in hemlines, necklines and stripes hanging from skirts.

The duo Dudu Bertolini and Rita Comparato, from Neon, were the most expected show of the day, mixing Chicago – the musical – with Moroccan culture and maximalist hand-made patterns. Afterwards Fabia Berseck presented her shinny and slightly voluminous collection full of knitwear.

Vide Bula, a street wear brand, came with neu-rave appeal. Lots of vinyl, acid colors, oversized shapes and layering. Andre Lima ended the day with his mini-dresses show, traveling through time, presenting different silhouettes, shapes and patterns.

On Sunday (28th January) the shows began only in the afternoon, with debutante Wilson Ranieri. The designer is known for his good work with moulage and complex, yet clean, constructions. For winter 2007, Ranieri focused on commercial clothes, with good pleat work, devorê velvet and, of course, great moulage constructions.

After a season out of SPFW, designer Caio Gobbi returns with a good menswear, featuring skinny jeans, jumpers and great jackets. Mario Querioz, also for menswear, took inspiration from the relation between men and animals, adding fur and fur pattern in his urban collection.

Smauel Cirnansck took us to his “Dream Factory” with amazing gowns and short dresses, with historical perfume and punk aesthetic. But the grand finale was by Cavalera, who put real samba dancers on the catwalk at the end of the show.

The last day started with a privê show from Isabela Capetto, at her store, only for the first row fashionistas. The designer took a more adult line, using heavy dark fabrics, with gold sequins, other then her classic girlish embroidering.

Back to the Bienal building, Priscilla Darolt opens her show with great origami dresses, all music inspired. Then Jefferson Kullig follows a more conceptual line, with extremely futuristic aesthetic, featuring leather and even optic fiber wires.

Clô Orozco, designer responsible for Huis Clos, took a slightly military form for this winter 2007. Chic and sophisticated, her women came in nice relaxed silhouette dresses, jumpers and skirts, with a good moulage work.

The grand finale came with a “come back” perfume. Designer Marcelo Sommer, return to SPFW with his new brand, Do Estilista (From the Desinger in Portuguese) after he sold his prior brand. Clothes made from home material, such as blankets and tablecloth, came together with playful patterns in bright funny colors.

Wait for a full coverage at CHIC TODAY February issue.

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